Codiaeum variegatum 'Mammy'
Fire Croton, Garden Croton, Variegated Croton, Joseph's Coat
Southeast Asia | Subtropical
With a fiery burst of color and texture, this croton is a true stand out. Their squiggly oblong leaves are splashed with joyful flecks of green, yellow, orange, and red that create a spectacular flame effect.
color, moderate, bright indirect, goldilocks, mid-size, compact, upright, clusters, bushy or dense, tabletop, floor, subtropical, oblong, ruffled, variegation, patterns
Always water thoroughly, but allow the top inch or two to dry out completely before watering again. Be particularly vigilant in winter to avoid overwatering.
Bright, indirect light is ideal for your Croton. Susceptible to leaf burn in long stretches of direct light. Can tolerate lower light conditions, but be sure to adjust watering and expect the plant to take on an elongated, sparse look. In addition, the variegation may begin to fade.
Thrives in higher humidity—try to provide additional moisture by grouping your Croton with other humidity lovers or placing in a humid spot, like the kitchen or bathroom. Of course, a humidifier will be your best bet for guaranteed humidity.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
Croton leaves are mildly toxic to pets and humans. Ingestion will cause mouth and stomach irritation and possible vomiting. Some people experience skin irritation when handling the sap.
Indoors, this plant can grow up to around 5 ft tall with a similar spread (when mature and with enough light)!
Most commonly found as a group of a few upright stems with leaves growing along the entire length—lending a full, bushy appearance. However, a single stem can be pruned to encourage branching, which will give the plant a more tree-like look. Works best on a tabletop for smaller specimens and on the floor or a plant stand for a larger one.
Splashes of green, yellow, orange, and red accent oblong leaves that have a squiggly erratic quality as they burst forth from each stem.
The gorgeous large leaves on this plant can quickly accumulate dust. Dust blocks the plant from absorbing light—so be sure to keep their leaves clean and dust-free. You can do this by misting and wiping each leaf or a routine hose-down/shower.
Water
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Allow top inches of soil to dry between waterings.
Always water thoroughly, but allow the top inch or two to dry out completely before watering again. Be particularly vigilant in winter to avoid overwatering.
Light
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Bright, indirect light.
Bright, indirect light is ideal for your Croton. Susceptible to leaf burn in long stretches of direct light. Can tolerate lower light conditions, but be sure to adjust watering and expect the plant to take on an elongated, sparse look. In addition, the variegation may begin to fade.
Humidity
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Sensitive to low humidity—keep in a humid spot.
Thrives in higher humidity—try to provide additional moisture by grouping your Croton with other humidity lovers or placing in a humid spot, like the kitchen or bathroom. Of course, a humidifier will be your best bet for guaranteed humidity.
Temperature
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Can adapt, but doesn't like sudden change.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
Toxicity
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Mildly toxic to humans and pets if ingested.
Croton leaves are mildly toxic to pets and humans. Ingestion will cause mouth and stomach irritation and possible vomiting. Some people experience skin irritation when handling the sap.
Size
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Pretty big, but manageable.
Indoors, this plant can grow up to around 5 ft tall with a similar spread (when mature and with enough light)!
Format
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Densely packed upright stems.
Most commonly found as a group of a few upright stems with leaves growing along the entire length—lending a full, bushy appearance. However, a single stem can be pruned to encourage branching, which will give the plant a more tree-like look. Works best on a tabletop for smaller specimens and on the floor or a plant stand for a larger one.
Leaf Shape
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Vibrant multi-colored leaves with a wavy oblong shape.
Splashes of green, yellow, orange, and red accent oblong leaves that have a squiggly erratic quality as they burst forth from each stem.
Pro Tip
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A good wipe down, please!
The gorgeous large leaves on this plant can quickly accumulate dust. Dust blocks the plant from absorbing light—so be sure to keep their leaves clean and dust-free. You can do this by misting and wiping each leaf or a routine hose-down/shower.
Thrives in a rich, very well-draining potting mix—you can use a good quality potting mix labeled for indoor plants or make your own mix. You can try a 1:1:1:0.5 mix of potting mix, orchid bark, perlite, and activated charcoal. Ensure the pot has the appropriate drainage and don't forget to pour out any excess water collected in the drainage tray or cachepot.
Try to repot every 2-3 years in the spring, especially when tending to a younger plant. Increase the pot size by about 2 inches each time. Once mature and becoming unwieldily to maneuver—you can reduce your repotting frequency and switch to a routine of refreshing just the top few inches of soil. More on repotting here.
If you're not already planning to repot, you can fertilize during the spring and summer months. Once to every two months should be plenty. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter when plant growth naturally slows down. You can try a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer—always diluted more than the recommended strength. A cactus and succulent specific feed would also work well. More on using fertilizer here.
Can be prone to legginess (or straggly, elongated growth). Regular pruning of the new growth (up to a third of the whole plant) will promote a fuller, bushier appearance. New leaves will emerge from the cut stem. Plus, you can use these stem cuttings to propagate! In addition, it's always good practice to regularly remove yellowed or dying leaves and any fallen plant debris. Ensure your scissors or pruners are sanitized to avoid spreading disease or pests. More on grooming techniques here.
To propagate a Croton, you can take apical stem cuttings (the top of the stem where there is new growth), around 4-6 inches long with at least 3 leaves. Remove any lower leaves to ensure a clear stem before rooting in water or another medium. Croton can be a bit more stubborn to root that other plants, so it can be helpful to dip the cut stem in rooting hormone first. Once the roots are a few inches long you can pot up your new plant! More on propagation techniques here.
Whole plant looking less and less variegated. New leaves are mostly solid green.
This is most likely due to insufficient light. While Croton can be quite tolerant of low light conditions, they may begin to loose their variegation to compensate. Greener leaves means more efficient photosynthesis.
Improve the lighting conditions for your Croton. These plants prefer medium to bright, indirect light. Make sure to adjust your watering to accommodate the increased light.
Multiple leaves are wilting and turning yellow—particularly the older, lower leaves. You may also notice stunted growth and mushy stems.
The most likely culprit is overwatering and initial signs of root rot. When a plant's roots sit in waterlogged soil for too long, a fungal infection can quickly take over, causing the roots to rot (turning brown and mushy).
First, ensure that your plant has appropriate drainage (both in terms of well-draining soil and plenty of drainage holes in the plant's container).
If you think you've caught the overwatering early on, you can simply let the plant dry out more than you have been. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Continue monitoring and only water when needed. You may also try using chopsticks (or something similar) to poke holes in the soil to help the roots get more oxygen. And finally, you can try to "wick" the excess moisture out of the soil by placing the whole pot (with drainage holes) in a tray or container with dry soil. This new layer of dry soil should soak up some of the excess moisture from the waterlogged areas around your plant's roots.
However, if you suspect a serious case of root rot, you'll definitely need to take a peak at the roots by removing the plant entirely from their container. If there are any black and mushy roots, trim them back completely before repotting with fresh soil in a new or sterilized container.
Leaves turning brown just on the edges or tips. These edges may gradually change from yellow to brown, crispy, and possibly a bit curled.
Browning just on the edges of tips is usually a reaction to low humidity. Since many of our houseplants have tropical origins, they also thrive in humid conditions. Our average indoor humidity is usually adequate, but some plants are simply more sensitive to changes in humidity than others. You may notice this more acutely when conditions are particularly dry—like when you turn on the heater in winter.
Try to accommodate your plant's needs by locating them in more naturally humid places, like the bathroom or kitchen, or grouping a bunch of humidity-loving plants together. But the only way to truly guarantee increased humidity is to get a humidifier!
Once you've addressed the problem: If the brown tips bother you, you can trim them back. Do your best to follow the shape of the leaf to help them look natural. Also, try to cut just short of the discolored edge so it doesn’t expand.
