Aspelnium nidus
Nest Fern
Southeast Asia | Tropical
A bit of a wild-child, this fern's playfully ruffled fronds create a tangle that resembles a bird's nest. Some say the fuzzy buds of new growth that are yet to be unfurled have the look eggs nestled at the center of the plant.
moderate, bright indirect, drought averse, mid-size, wide load, clusters, bushy or dense, shelf, hanging, tabletop, tropical, pet friendly, fronds, ruffled
This plant prefers to stay fairly moist, but certainly not soggy sopping wet. Check the soil frequently in summer to determine if it's starting to dry out. In winter, you can be a little more lax, allowing the top inch or so to dry out before watering again.
To thrive, this fern prefers medium to bright, indirect light. The leaves are prone to burn in prolonged direct light. Avoid a low light situation as this moisture loving plant could succumb to root rot.
Thrives in higher humidity—try to provide additional moisture by grouping your Bird's Nest Fern with other humidity lovers or placing in a humid spot, like the kitchen or bathroom. Of course, a humidifier will be your best bet for guaranteed humidity.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
A non-toxic plant pal! You can introduce this plant to your whole family, pets and children included. While it'll be a sad day for you and your plant if someone takes a nibble, you don't have to worry about poisoning anyone!
Indoors, this plant can grow up to around 3-5 ft tall with a similar spread (when mature and with enough light)!
Generally low, bushy clusters densely packed stems. The slender leaves slowly unfurl from a central rosette and tend to grow straight up before arching or curling downward as they grow longer. Works best on a table or shelf when still small and on the floor or a plant stand when mature to show off the impressive foliage.
Relatively slender, spear shaped leaves with a frilly waved texture in a vibrant, bright green. As the plant matures, the leaves can actually become quite broad. You may also notice that the leaf tips seemingly "split" off or fork in new directions, depending on the particular cultivar you have.
Usually brown spots are an unwelcome sight on your plant, but in the case of ferns, it's likely a reproductive spore that can be propagated (kind of like a seed). You'll know it's a spore if the spots are lined up in neat rows, look and feel like tiny bumps, and are kind of crispy.
This fern is epiphytic, meaning it likes to grow in the mossy crooks of tree branches. Perhaps yet another origin story for the "nest" moniker. And like many birds, this plant doesn't stop at just trees. Their airborne spores can nestle into just about any suitable nook or cranny, even if it's a stone wall.
Water
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Keep soil just moist, but not soggy.
This plant prefers to stay fairly moist, but certainly not soggy sopping wet. Check the soil frequently in summer to determine if it's starting to dry out. In winter, you can be a little more lax, allowing the top inch or so to dry out before watering again.
Light
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Medium to bright, indirect light.
To thrive, this fern prefers medium to bright, indirect light. The leaves are prone to burn in prolonged direct light. Avoid a low light situation as this moisture loving plant could succumb to root rot.
Humidity
|
Sensitive to low humidity—keep in a humid spot.
Thrives in higher humidity—try to provide additional moisture by grouping your Bird's Nest Fern with other humidity lovers or placing in a humid spot, like the kitchen or bathroom. Of course, a humidifier will be your best bet for guaranteed humidity.
Temperature
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Can adapt, but doesn't like sudden change.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
Toxicity
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Non-toxic. Completely pet safe!
A non-toxic plant pal! You can introduce this plant to your whole family, pets and children included. While it'll be a sad day for you and your plant if someone takes a nibble, you don't have to worry about poisoning anyone!
Size
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An in-betweener. Not too big, not too small.
Indoors, this plant can grow up to around 3-5 ft tall with a similar spread (when mature and with enough light)!
Format
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Low bushy clusters of densely packed stems.
Generally low, bushy clusters densely packed stems. The slender leaves slowly unfurl from a central rosette and tend to grow straight up before arching or curling downward as they grow longer. Works best on a table or shelf when still small and on the floor or a plant stand when mature to show off the impressive foliage.
Leaf Shape
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Slender leaves with a wavy texture.
Relatively slender, spear shaped leaves with a frilly waved texture in a vibrant, bright green. As the plant matures, the leaves can actually become quite broad. You may also notice that the leaf tips seemingly "split" off or fork in new directions, depending on the particular cultivar you have.
Pro Tip
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Spot the spores!
Usually brown spots are an unwelcome sight on your plant, but in the case of ferns, it's likely a reproductive spore that can be propagated (kind of like a seed). You'll know it's a spore if the spots are lined up in neat rows, look and feel like tiny bumps, and are kind of crispy.
Fun Fact
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Grows on trees, but also just about any mossy nook!
This fern is epiphytic, meaning it likes to grow in the mossy crooks of tree branches. Perhaps yet another origin story for the "nest" moniker. And like many birds, this plant doesn't stop at just trees. Their airborne spores can nestle into just about any suitable nook or cranny, even if it's a stone wall.
Thrives in a rich, very well-draining potting mix—you can use a good quality potting mix labeled for indoor plants or make your own mix. You can try a 1:1:1:0.5 mix of potting mix, orchid bark, perlite, and activated charcoal. Ensure the pot has the appropriate drainage and don't forget to pour out any excess water collected in the drainage tray or cachepot.
Try to repot every 2-3 years in the spring, especially when tending to a younger plant. Increase the pot size by about 2 inches each time or until you're satisfied with the size. It's still important to repot at this stage, but it'll be an exercise of refreshing the soil, keeping the pot size the same, and possibly doing some root trimming to restrict the plant's growth. More on repotting here.
If you're not already planning to repot, you can fertilize during the spring and summer months. Once to every two months should be plenty. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter when plant growth naturally slows down. You can try a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer—always diluted more than the recommended strength. More on using fertilizer here.
While no specific pruning is required for this plant, it's always good practice to regularly remove yellowed or dying leaves and any fallen plant debris. Ensure your scissors or pruners are sanitized to avoid spreading disease or pests. More on grooming techniques here.
Since Bird's Nest Ferns grow in dense clumps, you can always divide these into multiple plants when repotting. You'll simply pull apart the roots into your desired clumps. Or, if a bit rootbound, you may need to cut them apart. You can then pot each one up into their own appropriately sized vessel. More on propagation techniques here.
Ferns have always been popular houseplants. Despite their reputation as finicky plants, these truly ancient plants have figured out how to stick around. And there are plenty of varieties to pick from! Some of our favorites include: Boston Fern, Staghorn Fern, Maidenhair Fern, and Asparagus Fern.
A white mold covering the surface of the soil or full-on mushrooms sprouting in the soil or even popping out through drainage holes.
It can be frightening to notice mold or mushrooms growing on the soil. However, these fungii are usually benign and won't harm your plant directly. The real danger is that you're creating an environment that promotes fungal growth and is quite likely overly wet. Ultimately, these could be warning signs that you are overwatering.
If you want to eliminate the mold and mushrooms, you can simply remove and replace the top inch or so of soil. You can also try a soil soak of neem oil, which acts as a fungicide. But try not to overdo it, since you're delivering neem oil in a water-based solution, too much will do more harm than good. The most important factor will be to evaluate your watering frequency and ensure you aren't overwatering. While the visible fungii aren't problematic for your plant, sustained overwatering will eventually lead to a fungal infection at the roots, the cause of dreaded root rot.
Multiple leaves are wilting and turning yellow—particularly the older, lower leaves. You may also notice stunted growth and mushy stems.
The most likely culprit is overwatering and initial signs of root rot. When a plant's roots sit in waterlogged soil for too long, a fungal infection can quickly take over, causing the roots to rot (turning brown and mushy).
First, ensure that your plant has appropriate drainage (both in terms of well-draining soil and plenty of drainage holes in the plant's container).
If you think you've caught the overwatering early on, you can simply let the plant dry out more than you have been. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Continue monitoring and only water when needed. You may also try using chopsticks (or something similar) to poke holes in the soil to help the roots get more oxygen. And finally, you can try to "wick" the excess moisture out of the soil by placing the whole pot (with drainage holes) in a tray or container with dry soil. This new layer of dry soil should soak up some of the excess moisture from the waterlogged areas around your plant's roots.
However, if you suspect a serious case of root rot, you'll definitely need to take a peak at the roots by removing the plant entirely from their container. If there are any black and mushy roots, trim them back completely before repotting with fresh soil in a new or sterilized container.
Multiple leaves are dry or shriveled, perhaps beginning to yellow or brown.
The shriveling of entire leaves is often a sign of dehydration from either too much light or not enough water. If accompanied by major wilting and any softness, this is more likely a sign of not enough light or too much water.
The key is a well tuned balance between the amount of light and your frequency of watering. Instead of going by a set schedule, check-in with your plant to see if they need the water or not. You'll want to allow around half the soil to dry out completely before watering again. While this may be on a consistent schedule for some months, as the seasons change, so will the amount of light and therefore your watering schedule must shift.
Leaves turning brown just on the edges or tips. These edges may gradually change from yellow to brown, crispy, and possibly a bit curled.
Browning just on the edges of tips is usually a reaction to low humidity. Since many of our houseplants have tropical origins, they also thrive in humid conditions. Our average indoor humidity is usually adequate, but some plants are simply more sensitive to changes in humidity than others. You may notice this more acutely when conditions are particularly dry—like when you turn on the heater in winter.
Try to accommodate your plant's needs by locating them in more naturally humid places, like the bathroom or kitchen, or grouping a bunch of humidity-loving plants together. But the only way to truly guarantee increased humidity is to get a humidifier!
Once you've addressed the problem: If the brown tips bother you, you can trim them back. Do your best to follow the shape of the leaf to help them look natural. Also, try to cut just short of the discolored edge so it doesn’t expand.
