Phalaenopsis spp.
Moth Orchid, Phals
Southeast Asia | Tropical & Subtropical
An absolute classic, yet so often misunderstood. Once you get to know their unique needs and can read their handy cues, enjoying these beauties will be a breeze. The foliage is pleasantly unassuming and the tangle of aerial roots are curious, but the star of the show is the cluster of blooms that sits atop a long arching stem. True to their name, each bloom looks almost like a moth captured in mid-flight.
flowering, pet friendly, diva status, bright indirect, goldilocks, petite, compact, upright, clusters, shelf, tabletop, tropical, subtropical, plump
Unlike most other houseplants, Orchids can signal their need for water by the color of their roots! Be sure to water thoroughly when you notice the exposed roots turning silvery white. Green roots mean your plant is sufficiently hydrated, while brown roots indicate root rot and yellow roots indicate a stretch of drought. It can be particularly helpful to keep your Orchid in a clear container in order to monitor the health of their roots.
Bright, indirect light is ideal. Susceptible to leaf burn in long stretches of direct light. Can tolerate lower light conditions, but be sure to adjust watering and expect reduced growth.
Can adapt to average room humidity, but will thrive in higher humidity, especially in the summer or hot, dry conditions (like near a heater).
These Orchids enjoy the balmy warmth of the tropics, preferably between 75-85°F, but can adapt to average indoor temperatures. Definitely avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes, which are likely to lead to sudden flower loss and brown spots on leaves.
A non-toxic plant pal! You can introduce this plant to your whole family, pets and children included. While it'll be a sad day for you and your plant if someone takes a nibble, you don't have to worry about poisoning anyone!
Varies quite a bit depending on the species and variety, but indoors, this plant can grow between 1-3 ft tall with a 1 ft spread (when mature and with enough light)!
A few thick leaves fan out from a central stem stacked in a neat rosette pattern and flanked by a jumble of long aerial roots. But the star of the show is the cluster of blooms that sits atop a long arching stem. True to their name, each bloom looks almost like a moth captured in mid-flight.
Plump sturdy leaves in bright green with an oblong shape sit at the base of the plant. This understated base sends out long slender stems that arch gracefully, seemingly weighed down by clusters of vibrant blooms.
The pooling or accumulation of water in the crevasses between leaves can quickly lead to rot. Do your best to water at the soil level rather than directly over the plant. Better yet, try bottom watering to avoid the problem altogether.
Velamen is a spongy white or gray coating that covers the aerial roots of an Orchid. This protective casing can give us hints to the plant's level of hydration. When fully hydrated, the velamen appears green. As it dries out, it will appear white or gray, signaling the need for more water. The velamen may begin to split after prolonged dehydration or excessive handling, followed by yellowing roots. However, these roots can recover with a bit of time and if your watering habits are remedied.
Water
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Allow top inches of soil to dry between waterings.
Unlike most other houseplants, Orchids can signal their need for water by the color of their roots! Be sure to water thoroughly when you notice the exposed roots turning silvery white. Green roots mean your plant is sufficiently hydrated, while brown roots indicate root rot and yellow roots indicate a stretch of drought. It can be particularly helpful to keep your Orchid in a clear container in order to monitor the health of their roots.
Light
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Bright, indirect light.
Bright, indirect light is ideal. Susceptible to leaf burn in long stretches of direct light. Can tolerate lower light conditions, but be sure to adjust watering and expect reduced growth.
Humidity
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Extra humidity appreciated in drier spaces.
Can adapt to average room humidity, but will thrive in higher humidity, especially in the summer or hot, dry conditions (like near a heater).
Temperature
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Enjoys warmer temps.
These Orchids enjoy the balmy warmth of the tropics, preferably between 75-85°F, but can adapt to average indoor temperatures. Definitely avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes, which are likely to lead to sudden flower loss and brown spots on leaves.
Toxicity
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Non-toxic. Completely pet safe!
A non-toxic plant pal! You can introduce this plant to your whole family, pets and children included. While it'll be a sad day for you and your plant if someone takes a nibble, you don't have to worry about poisoning anyone!
Size
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An in-betweener. Not too big, not too small.
Varies quite a bit depending on the species and variety, but indoors, this plant can grow between 1-3 ft tall with a 1 ft spread (when mature and with enough light)!
Format
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Aerial roots, thick green leaves, and clusters of bright blooms.
A few thick leaves fan out from a central stem stacked in a neat rosette pattern and flanked by a jumble of long aerial roots. But the star of the show is the cluster of blooms that sits atop a long arching stem. True to their name, each bloom looks almost like a moth captured in mid-flight.
Leaf Shape
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Bright green oblong leaves featuring showy blooms.
Plump sturdy leaves in bright green with an oblong shape sit at the base of the plant. This understated base sends out long slender stems that arch gracefully, seemingly weighed down by clusters of vibrant blooms.
Pro Tip
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Avoid getting water in-between the leaves.
The pooling or accumulation of water in the crevasses between leaves can quickly lead to rot. Do your best to water at the soil level rather than directly over the plant. Better yet, try bottom watering to avoid the problem altogether.
Fun Fact
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Got root fuzz?
Velamen is a spongy white or gray coating that covers the aerial roots of an Orchid. This protective casing can give us hints to the plant's level of hydration. When fully hydrated, the velamen appears green. As it dries out, it will appear white or gray, signaling the need for more water. The velamen may begin to split after prolonged dehydration or excessive handling, followed by yellowing roots. However, these roots can recover with a bit of time and if your watering habits are remedied.
Thrives in a rich, very well-draining potting mix—you can use a good quality potting mix labeled for orchids or supplement a standard indoor mix with orchid bark. Ensure the pot has the appropriate drainage and don't forget to pour out any excess water collected in the drainage tray or cachepot.
Try to repot every 3-4 years in the spring (and while the plant is no longer flowering), especially when tending to a younger plant. Increase the pot size by about 2 inches each time or until you're satisfied with the size. It's still important to repot at this stage, but it'll be an exercise of refreshing the soil, keeping the pot size the same, and possibly doing some root trimming to restrict the plant's growth. Keep in mind, a mature and lightly rootbound plant is more likely to flower! More on repotting here.
If you're not already planning to repot, you can fertilize during the spring and summer months. Once to every two months should be plenty. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter when plant growth naturally slows down. You can try a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer—always diluted more than the recommended strength. Try something with more potassium (K) or tailored for orchids if you're specifically looking to see blooms. More on using fertilizer here.
While no specific pruning is required for this plant, it's always good practice to regularly remove yellowed or dying leaves and any fallen plant debris. Ensure your scissors or pruners are sanitized to avoid spreading disease or pests. Try not to prune off any of the aerial roots—it's best to leave them be or tuck them back into the planter. You can actually promote additional flowers by pruning back a spent flower stalk. Simply cut the stalk down to just about an inch above a non-flowering node (the little knobs along the stalk). This will signal the Orchid to send out a brand new flowering shoot! More on grooming techniques here.
If you have several sets of flower stalks in a single pot, you can always divide these into multiple plants when repotting. You'll simply pull apart the roots into your desired clumps. Or, if a bit rootbound, you may need to cut them apart. You can then pot each one up into their own appropriately sized vessel. If you'd like to propagate without dividing your plant, you can take 'Keiki' cuttings. Offsets can naturally develop along the plant's flower stalks on non-flowering nodes. In this case, you don't actually need to do much, as the 'Keiki' will begin develop its own roots. Once these roots are around 2-3 inches long, you can cut the new baby off the original plant and pot it up. More on propagation techniques here.
A complete lack of flowers or very few flowers.
Moth Orchids generally need a resting period in winter in order to produce plenty of blooms. A little bit of stress is actually the trigger for a plant to flower more vigorously.
In the winter, keep your Moth Orchid in slightly cooler temperature ranges than you normally would—aim for around 60°F. While this should happen naturally, make sure they're also getting a bit less light (and therefore less water). You may even allow the plant to get rootbound. Don't forget to return to your normal care routine when spring comes around and you should be rewarded for your efforts!
Larger grey or pale patches on a few leaves. The spot may look dried out and somewhat bleached.
When your plant is exposed to the hot sun, it begins to evaporate more moisture from the leaf surface than the plant can replace. Leading to bleached areas or large grey patches on leaves.
You may be pushing the limits on how much direct sun your plant can handle. Try moving it out of reach of those direct rays of sun or moving to a spot that receives only minimal direct sun in the mornings or evenings. While this should prevent further burning, the spots will not "heal", so it's up to you if you'd like to prune off the affected leaves.
Dark brown spots, or areas, that may be in the middle of a leaf or on the edges. These spots tend to be larger areas with an irregular edge, not a nice neat circular shape. They may also look “wet” or saturated in the middle.
These spots are usually the sign of a fungal leaf spot disease. These kinds of diseases often go hand-in-hand with overwatering or an overly damp environment, which weakens your plants and makes them more susceptible to disease.
The first step is to isolate the plant to avoid spread to your other plants. Then, prune or pinch off the affected leaves. Make sure to be diligent in your removal of any fallen plant debris from the soil. Most diseases thrive off humid environments, so it's best to stop misting or providing additional humidity for your plant (for now). You may even try switching to bottom watering to ensure you don't get any moisture on the leaves. Finally, a regimen of neem oil could be in order, focusing on a soil soak rather than spraying the leaves (at least in the initial treatment phase).
Once you've removed the infected leaves, the disease should drastically slow its spread. Make sure that you keep the leaves dry and check them regularly. If you see any symptoms return, remove those leaves as well and continue your treatments.
One or multiple stems feel a bit soft and may be starting to yellow or brown at the base.
This is a sure sign of persistent overwatering. The root rot has spread and led to stem rot as well.
You will have to cut back any stems with signs of rot. To avoid further spread, you should also take a peak at the roots by removing the plant entirely from their container. If there are any black and mushy roots, trim them back completely before repotting with fresh soil in a new or sterilized container.
