Euphorbia lactea 'Cristata'
Crested Elkhorn, Crested Candelabra Plant, Crested Euphorbia
Africa | Tropical
This unusual plant is actually two-plants-in-one! The base, or "trunk", is (usually) a Euphorbia neriifolia and the top is a Euphorbia lactea that has been grafted on, creating a curious Frankenstein plant that closely resembles something you might find in a coral reef!
easy going, drought tolerant, dire
Allow the top half of soil to dry completely between thorough waterings. Reduce frequency as needed in winter or in lower light conditions.
Primarily plenty of bright, indirect light with a few hours of direct light is ideal for a happy, thriving plant.
While not at all bothered about high humidity, your Coral Cactus will appreciate the occasional misting, which helps remove dust.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
Coral Cactus are mildly toxic to pets and humans. Ingestion will cause mouth and stomach irritation and possible vomiting. Some people experience skin irritation when handling the sap.
Usually around 9-15 inches tall. This grafted plant won't continue to grow much, if at all.
The base is a relatively slender trunk with a classic cactus look (thorns aplenty), while the top seemingly blossoms into a wild wavy crest that bears a striking resemblance to coral.
While not exactly a "leaf" per-se, the top of this plant deserves its on description. This so-called crest fans out and contorts, creating unique waves or ripples that are often tinged in pink or red along the edge.
Not only is this plant two plants grafted together, the unusual look of the crest is the product of a mutation known as fasciation. This is abnormal growth in which the growing tip becomes elongated producing flattened or contorted tissue. This growing pattern can be rare, so it's much more common (and easier) to propagate by grafting a single crest or even just a section of the crest onto a straight stem.
Water
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Allow half of soil to dry out before watering again.
Allow the top half of soil to dry completely between thorough waterings. Reduce frequency as needed in winter or in lower light conditions.
Light
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Bright, indirect to direct light.
Primarily plenty of bright, indirect light with a few hours of direct light is ideal for a happy, thriving plant.
Humidity
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Not too concerned by humidity levels.
While not at all bothered about high humidity, your Coral Cactus will appreciate the occasional misting, which helps remove dust.
Temperature
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Can adapt, but doesn't like sudden change.
Adaptable to average indoor temperatures, but generally prefers the warmer side and may complain when exposed to cold drafts or dry heat from vents.
Toxicity
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Mildly toxic to humans and pets if ingested.
Coral Cactus are mildly toxic to pets and humans. Ingestion will cause mouth and stomach irritation and possible vomiting. Some people experience skin irritation when handling the sap.
Size
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A petite plant pal.
Usually around 9-15 inches tall. This grafted plant won't continue to grow much, if at all.
Format
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A slender trunk topped with a crested formation.
The base is a relatively slender trunk with a classic cactus look (thorns aplenty), while the top seemingly blossoms into a wild wavy crest that bears a striking resemblance to coral.
Leaf Shape
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Rippled wavy crest formation.
While not exactly a "leaf" per-se, the top of this plant deserves its on description. This so-called crest fans out and contorts, creating unique waves or ripples that are often tinged in pink or red along the edge.
Fun Fact
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A Frankenstein and a mutant!
Not only is this plant two plants grafted together, the unusual look of the crest is the product of a mutation known as fasciation. This is abnormal growth in which the growing tip becomes elongated producing flattened or contorted tissue. This growing pattern can be rare, so it's much more common (and easier) to propagate by grafting a single crest or even just a section of the crest onto a straight stem.
Thrives in an airy, light, fast-draining potting mix—you can use a good quality potting mix labeled for succulents/cactus or supplement a standard indoor mix with an equal quantity of pumice or horticultural grit. Ensure the pot has the appropriate drainage and don't forget to pour out any excess water collected in the drainage tray or cachepot.
A very slow grower, it's unlikely you'll need to repot this plant into a larger container. But you may want to refresh the soil every 3-4 years, keeping the pot size the same. More on repotting here.
If you're not already planning to repot, you can fertilize during the spring and summer months. Once to every two months should be plenty. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter when plant growth naturally slows down. You can try a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer—always diluted more than the recommended strength. A cactus and succulent specific feed would also work well. More on using fertilizer here.
While no specific pruning is required for this plant, it's always good practice to regularly remove yellowed or dying leaves and any fallen plant debris. Ensure your scissors or pruners are sanitized to avoid spreading disease or pests. More on grooming techniques here.
Since this is a grafted plant, the only way to propagate it is to graft another pair of cuttings. If the base (Euphorbia neriifolia) produces a lateral branch, you can take a stem cutting, around 3 inches long. Rinse or wipe off the milky sap. From there, you can simply allow the cutting to callus over and pot up that single plant or you can venture on to grafting a portion of the crest (Euphorbia lactea). This essentially consists of cutting a 'v'-shaped tongue and groove in order to slot the two plants together. You'll need to secure the two pieces together using twine or grafting wax and wait until they've fully merged before potting up your newly grafted plant. More on propagation techniques here.
Stems are wrinkled or shriveled, but not soft or yellowing.
Wrinkling or shriveling of stems is often a sign of dehydration from either too much light or not enough water. If accompanied by softness or yellowing, this is more likely a sign of not enough light or too much water.
The key is a well tuned balance between the amount of light and your frequency of watering. Instead of going by a set schedule, check-in with your plant to see if they need the water or not. You'll want to allow around half the soil to dry out completely before watering again. While this may be on a consistent schedule for some months, as the seasons change, so will the amount of light and therefore your watering schedule must shift.
One or multiple stems feel a bit soft and may be starting to yellow or brown at the base.
This is a sure sign of persistent overwatering. The root rot has spread and led to stem rot as well.
You will have to cut back any stems with signs of rot. To avoid further spread, you should also take a peak at the roots by removing the plant entirely from their container. If there are any black and mushy roots, trim them back completely before repotting with fresh soil in a new or sterilized container.
Slow or no new growth. Possibly accompanied by pale new growth.
This is most likely due to insufficient light. Coral Cactus are accustomed to receiving plenty of sunlight. Unlike most houseplants, they can generally withstand multiple hours of direct sun every day, something they'll be craving especially during the winter months.
Improve the lighting conditions for your Coral Cactus to thrive. These plants prefer plenty of bright, indirect light along with a bit of direct light. Make sure to adjust your watering to accommodate the increased light.